Key Takeaway
Hyaluronic acid and glycerin are humectants that draw in and hold onto moisture, while squalane is an emollient that fills in gaps between skin cells to smooth the surface. Since they play different roles, the basic approach to moisturizing isn't picking one over the others — it's layering a humectant, then sealing it in with an emollient or occlusive.
- Applying only a hyaluronic acid serum and stopping there can actually leave skin feeling tighter on dry days — layer a cream on top
- Glycerin is common and inexpensive, but it's a long-trusted, foundational moisturizing ingredient
- Squalane is made by stabilizing squalene, a substance found in skin's own oil, which is why it tends to suit dry and sensitive skin well
Ingredient names on a moisturizer's label can look similar, but they do very different jobs on your skin. SKINROUTE breaks down the three ways moisturizing ingredients work, and the differences between the three most common ones — hyaluronic acid, glycerin, and squalane.
The 3 Ways Moisturizing Ingredients Work
Moisturizing ingredients fall into three categories based on what they do: humectants, emollients, and occlusives. A well-formulated moisturizer blends all three to suit a given skin type.
1. Humectants — Draw in Moisture
These pull moisture from the surroundings into the stratum corneum and hold it there. Hyaluronic acid, glycerin, panthenol, urea, and betaine are common examples.
2. Emollients — Fill In Gaps to Smooth Skin
These fill the tiny gaps between skin cells with soft lipids, smoothing the skin's surface. Squalane, ceramide, cholesterol, and plant oils fall into this category. Among these, ceramide is a core component of the lipids in the stratum corneum and is central to barrier function.
3. Occlusives — Seal In Moisture So It Doesn't Escape
These form a thin film on top of skin that reduces moisture evaporation (transepidermal water loss, or TEWL). Petrolatum (petroleum jelly), dimethicone, lanolin, and mineral oil are common examples.
Humectant vs. Emollient vs. Occlusive
| Humectant | Emollient | Occlusive | |
|---|---|---|---|
| What it does | Draws in and holds moisture | Fills gaps between skin cells | Seals the surface to reduce evaporation |
| Think of it as | A sponge | Mortar between bricks | A lid |
| Common ingredients | Hyaluronic acid · glycerin · panthenol | Squalane · ceramide · plant oils | Petrolatum · dimethicone · lanolin |
| Feel on skin | Light and fresh | Soft and smooth | Heavy, with a noticeable film |
Hyaluronic Acid vs. Glycerin vs. Squalane
All three are called "moisturizing ingredients," but two of them add moisture while the other fills in gaps. So instead of asking which of the three is "best," it makes more sense to ask what your own skin is missing.
Hyaluronic Acid vs. Glycerin vs. Squalane
| Hyaluronic Acid | Glycerin | Squalane | |
|---|---|---|---|
| Category | Humectant | Humectant | Emollient |
| What it does | Draws in and holds moisture | Draws in moisture to keep the stratum corneum hydrated | Fills gaps between skin cells to smooth the surface |
| Feel on skin | Light and fresh | Can feel sticky in high amounts | A light oil feel |
| Good fit for | All skin, especially skin lacking moisture | All skin types | Dry and sensitive skin, dry aging skin |
| Watch out for | Seal it in with a cream on dry days | Can feel sticky when used alone in high amounts | May feel heavy on oily skin |
What to Know About Each Ingredient
Hyaluronic Acid — Can Backfire If You Don't Seal It In
Hyaluronic acid is a substance naturally present in skin, and it's considered one of the key molecules that helps skin hold onto moisture. The decline in skin's hyaluronic acid with age is also cited as one reason skin becomes drier and loses elasticity over time (Papakonstantinou et al., 2012).
That said, humectants work by drawing in moisture from their surroundings, so on very dry days there's less moisture around to draw in, and whatever moisture they do capture can evaporate again more easily. That's why applying only a hyaluronic acid serum and stopping there can actually leave skin feeling tighter. Apply it to skin that's still damp, and seal it in with a cream containing emollients and occlusives. For more detail, see Why Hyaluronic Acid Can Sometimes Leave Skin Drier.
Glycerin — A Basic Ingredient That's Underrated Because It's Common
Glycerin is a humectant that's been used more widely in moisturizers than almost any other ingredient. It gets less attention simply because it's cheap and common — but if glycerin appears near the top of an ingredient list, that's a sign the product has solid moisturizing basics covered. It can feel sticky in high amounts, but most products blend it with other ingredients to keep the feel in check.
Squalane — A Light Oil Similar to Your Skin's Own Oil
Squalene is a substance found in your skin's own oil, but it oxidizes easily when exposed to air. Squalane is made by adding hydrogen to squalene to stabilize it. Because it resembles your skin's own oil, it tends to absorb lightly and is known for not clogging pores as easily, which makes it relatively comfortable to use even for people wary of oils. Plant-derived squalane, sourced from olives or sugarcane, is widely used today.
Combinations That Fit Your Skin
The American Academy of Dermatology (AAD) recommends moisturizers containing ceramide or hyaluronic acid, and explains that moisturizing power increases in the order gel → lotion → cream → ointment. It also advises choosing non-comedogenic products if you're acne-prone, and fragrance-free products if your skin is sensitive.
| Skin condition | Recommended combination |
|---|---|
| Oily/combination | Hyaluronic acid serum + light gel cream |
| Dry | Glycerin toner + ceramide cream, with a few drops of squalane if needed |
| Sensitive | Fragrance-free products centered on panthenol and ceramide, kept to as few steps as possible |
| Dry, aging skin | Hyaluronic acid serum + squalane + ceramide cream |
| Acne-prone | Hyaluronic acid + non-comedogenic gel or lotion, avoiding heavy oils |
The Order to Apply Moisturizing Ingredients
The basic rule for moisturizing is to layer from light formulas to heavy ones — humectant → emollient → occlusive. The AAD recommends applying moisturizer right away while skin is still damp from cleansing or showering.
The Order for Applying Moisturizing Ingredients
- Toner — Fill in moisture with a humectant right after cleansing, while skin is still damp
- Serum/Ampoule — A concentrated humectant like hyaluronic acid or glycerin
- Emollient — A light lotion or a few drops of an oil containing squalane or ceramide
- Cream — Finish with an occlusive so moisture doesn't escape
- Sleeping mask (optional) — Only on nights when skin feels especially dry
You don't need to use every step every day. Oily skin may do fine with just a serum and a light gel cream. For more on when to use each texture, see The Complete Guide to Oil, Cream, and Lotion Textures.
Frequently Asked Questions
Can hyaluronic acid actually make skin drier?
It can. If you apply only a hyaluronic acid serum on a dry day, the moisture it captures can evaporate again, leaving skin feeling tight. Applying it to damp skin and sealing it in with a cream helps prevent this.
Is a product with a lot of glycerin bad for skin because it's sticky?
Feeling sticky is just a texture difference, not a sign it's bad for your skin. If you dislike the stickiness, look for a lighter formula that blends glycerin with other moisturizing ingredients, or use a smaller amount.
Are squalane and squalene the same ingredient?
No. Squalene is found in your skin's own oil and oxidizes easily when exposed to air, while squalane is made by adding hydrogen to it to make it stable. Cosmetics mainly use the stable form, squalane.
Does oily skin need a cream too?
Yes, even oily skin needs some moisturizing. Choose a light formula like a gel cream or lotion instead of a heavy cream, and check for a non-comedogenic label.
Find the Moisturizing Combination That Fits Your Skin
The same dryness can call for different ingredients depending on whether your skin lacks moisture or has a weakened barrier that can't hold onto it. SKIN100 Precision Skin Analysis uses over 100 survey questions to analyze 8 core factors — lifestyle habits, skincare habits, external environment, and more — to point out where your moisturizing routine falls short. Your AI coach guides you through the ingredient combination and application order tailored to your results.
References
- American Academy of Dermatology (AAD) — How to pick the right moisturizer for your skin
- American Academy of Dermatology (AAD) — Dermatologists' top tips for relieving dry skin
- Papakonstantinou E, et al. Hyaluronic acid: A key molecule in skin aging. Dermatoendocrinol 2012
- Coderch L, et al. Ceramides and skin function. Am J Clin Dermatol 2003